Its even, smoothly-applied and ridiculously tenacious grip let you stay focused on your work-piece, not your vise. This pin aligns two separate parts on the tail end of the vise. I also use copper caps or a delrin pad to grab the handle without marring the finish. Coming up with a way to hold the screw so you can use two hands for welding is the trick. All I do is build the crate and get it to the store.
This is how I finish the knobs after they cool: First I rough grind the excess steel down with my 6 x 48 belt sander. Wilton End Caps For a while now, I have been asked to build End Caps for the Wilton Vises. I was thinking about electrolysis, but I figured that the time I would spend setting up a tank and finding all of the stuff I needed would be about equal to just hitting the whole thing with a grinder. Just by looking with the naked eye, it's tough to tell if they are right or need to rotate 180 degrees. Take your time and check often with a set of calipers or a micrometer. Anyway, why instantly decrease its value with non-original hardware? Then I chamfer the knob pretty heavily for the peen material to fill. They are usually broken where the movable jaw turns into the round cylindrical shaft.
I got the stuck pin dislodged by first tapping the vise nut out of the back of the back jaw where the end cap was , and then used a steel punch shoved through the hole where the sister pin was on the other side of the vise nut to drive the stuck pin out from the inside of the vice nut, back out through it's original hole. They stayed there until moving outside of the city, to Schiller Park, Illinois in around 1957 sources say it was a gradual move. As much as I love my , there are many times when I prefer the precision and rigidity of a bench vise. By on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 01:48 pm: Who the heck spends 14 hours restoring their father's old, rusty, froze vise? I would also recommend a work apron and gloves. By on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 09:28 pm: I am fortunate enough to have a right and left hand Wilton Vise.
There were three or four old vises originally, and someone had purchased a very large Parker 976 before I got there, but this was the vise I was hoping to buy, so it all worked out. Much more rewarding than watching television reruns and I suspect it brought back lots of good memories. Four new 10:32 socket head screws were bought to replace the old screws. Before painting, thoroughly wipe off the parts with acetone or rubbing alcohol. If you have a lathe, then it is an easy angle adjustment on your compound.
As can be seen, it is stamped with 4-53. What does all that translate to, and how does the Tradesman 1745 compare to a conventional vise like my vintage Colombian? Installation Installation on the Wilton 1745 is about as simple as it gets assuming you have a suitable workbench to bolt it too. I will be doing just that real soon. I kinda figure the 6lb supporting model will not be enough, as the vise alone weighs around 4-5lbs. I would like to replace the regular nuts on my vise, and Wilton never seems to have any of the parts in stock when I call for any machinist vise.
Respectfully submitted, Hap l9l5 cut off By on Monday, December 03, 2012 - 06:43 pm: I have a Wilton vise in my shop and I love it. I kept heat on the pin area and eventually it popped. It weighs 40 pounds and he brought it home on the 5:00 o'clock bus. This was my third vise restoration, but the first of this design. Another quicker method is to weld the knobs on. The best place to start with restoring any machinery like that is taking it apart, cleaning the rust off and getting down to bare metal.
Anyhow, I have always noticed that some of the swiveling vises simply have a regular old nut on the threaded post, which of course requires use of a crescent wrench to lock the vise down or loosen it up. The vise does have one defect: The cast iron swivel base is cracked, and needs to be repaired. I use pins that the jaws rest on to keep the cuts straight. I also built a fixture to sharpen the cutters on my surface grinder. I really appreciate any well made tool and have a real weak spot for a good vise, vice? I like spinning the pin in a surface grinder on a sine plate with a spin fixture. I'm not yet sure what size threaded post the vise has however.
Now that I'm setting up my own tiny work space, I'll be putting this guy on a yet-to-be-built and yet-to-be-designed desk in my apartment. Finally, came the saga of the four face screws 6 holding on the two jaw face plates 7. If I ever have more than one rust removal project going on at a time, I probably will try it out. This means if your vise measures less then no problem if it measures more then I need to alter the collar for you. It's a 5 X 10 and the best quality vise I have except that's it too big for most daily work. The serrations are obviously an important part of the grip of jaws. This used to be more of a thing for me my career went from to to , but today it's limited by practical constraints - primarily the fact that I live in Brooklyn and don't have a shop of my own.