There must be an additional cable, with a white and a black wire in it, in the box to make the outlet work at all. And the wire from the light to the white from the power and the black from the power to the 3 way in the box with all the wires. If the switch or junction box is metal, it too must be securely grounded with a green ground screw or approved grounding clip. Thank-you for your reply Dan, you asked: But are you sure that someone in the past hasn't used what used to be a traveler to power something else? Included is a diagram for a 3 way dimmer and an arrangement to for 3 way outlet control from two locations. It may be as shown at the end of the run, but it may be between any pair of switch boxes as shown in a later figure , or even between the panel and the first switch box. I expect that he will call back on Monday.
An electrician may understand that a three way switch is actually a single pole, double throw switch. Fold the wires neatly back into the wall box and push the switch into the box. While it is quick and easy to simply push the wires into the new switch, and most electricians do that in the interest of saving time, it is preferable to put them under the screws as the springs in the holes will loosen over the years and make a poor connection. One is on a separate 2-way switch works fine and the other is connected to 3-way switches. Then, attach the white wire from switch one to a contact on the light fixture. In this circuit the source hot is at the common on the 3 way switch and 3-wire cable runs from there to the dimmer.
Configuration One: Power to the Switch For the first configuration, the power comes to the switch and then goes to the light. The light is only on when both switch one hallway by front door and switch two bedroom are in the up position. While the physical location of the 4 way switch may be anywhere, the electrical location of the switch is always between the two 3 way switches. Traveler terminals are always connected to a traveler terminal on the other switch - never to either the light or the incoming power. Sounds like it is seriously mixed up, maybe with one of the travelers going to the light instead of the other switch. Make sure the wires are capped and safe in the second box and turn power on.
Would we be better off running new 3 wire to the Switch 2 or can we try to get it to work again as it is? It's really hard to diagnose from a distance, but the power coming into the second switch will always come in when the first switch has the first power cable on a traveler. Cables must be secured so that, if there is tugging or pulling further down the line, the live wires don't rip out of the box and cause issues. Thank you Dan for your reply again. The same power will then go to switch 1B. You can use a volt meter, or the non contact voltage detector to trace the wires. To do this job, you would need 17 feet of cable. The ground wire goes through both switch boxes and the ceiling light box and it is connected at all junctions, except the light, with a pigtail short piece of wire and wire connector.
Of course, if you mean you've removed the fixture and left an open box behind it, then yes it is fine to cover it with plastic. Where is the voltage coming from? A 4-way dimmer diagram is included as well as an arrangement to control the lights from four different points. I found out that it is not grounded. Most electrical panels label switches for the different rooms in your home. Using needle nose pliers or other tool, bend the bare end of the wire into a small circle, loosen the screws as far as they will go, and work the wire under the screw head and around the screw in a clockwise manner if put on backwards tightening the screw will tend to unbend the wire and it may come away from the screw. That switch should always produce power at one of the two travelers.
Run 2 2-wire conductors between the two boxes. Do not connect more than one wire under a screw terminal. Given that each one is to have a traveler wire attached to it, and there are two traveler wires and terminals, it doesn't matter which traveler wire goes to which traveler terminal. Good electrical safety practices dictate here that a voltmeter be used to double check that the circuit is actually off; either use a non-contact voltage detector or a volt meter with one probe to each of the side terminals one at a time while the other is touched to the green ground screw near one end of the switch. Depending on the manufacturer, the travelers may be on opposite sides of the device or the two terminals may be on the same side. Dominick, my son thought he would help out in replacing the old fashioned up-down toggle on-off wall switches to the new fancy large fascia switches. Black wires are used for the common and one of the travelers on the three pole switches, but the other traveler is missing.
Color coding For the official word, consult the National Electric code. It's very doubtful it has one. Actually wiring the switches is always the same, the different methods simply can result in easier or cheaper ways to install the cabling necessary, but keep in mind the mention above that new work must always have a neutral wire in the switch box, whether it is actually used or not. Diagrams shown on this page are simplified for clarity. Find , , Professionals, and Services in Canada, United States, and United Kingdom! Do not connect smaller wires to the electric panel, unless they are the leads of a transformer for a doorbell or similar circuit. In this example the only neutral wires are the white wire in the power in cable which is always a white wire and one of the two wires attached to the light also always white.
Only here's the weird part, when the switch by the bed is off, you can't turn the light on with the switch by the door. If the wires are Romex two or three insulated wires encased in an outer sheath you could replace the box with an old work or cut in plastic box - that isn't a difficult thing to do and it's very inexpensive. If it is the power coming in the outlet will be on all the time, if it is the light the outlet will go on and off. Check to be sure the traveler wires only connect between the traveler terminals on the switches. If the one marked T never goes hot, I would suspect that it is the common, not a traveler. But if the screws are already touching, that's probably not a real good solution, as movement over the years could wear a hole in the tape. Fixture Between Two Three-Way Switches: Power Through Switch Light is controlled by two three-way switches with the light between the switches and the power first going through a switch, then to the light, and onto the second three-way switch.
I wonder if it's a three way switch wired wrong or simple switches. At the risk of being repetitious, make sure the power is off before making any connections to an existing circuit. I was just looking to see if the Code called for color specific wires for the travelers and happened upon your site. You should have two wires marked as travelers and one as common which will never go hot without that second switch wired in. If the switch is in the down position it exits the switch on the red wire, entering the second switch at a traveler terminal. The white wire must be used here as code requires that all neutral wires be white.
By wiring a 2-way switch, The circuit below shows the basic concept of electricity flow to the load. The idea behind a switch is that it opens or closes the connection on the black wire when you flip it. Connect the traveler wires using the bottom conductor. Once again, remember to ensure that you have a tight connection. Do this by threading a special green, hex-headed grounding machine screw into a pre-tapped hole in the metal box, or use a special green ground clip. Basic 2-Way Circuit - Power Coming In At Switch.